Relaxers for Black Hair

Relaxers for black hair are chemical treatments that are applied regularly to kinky or curly hair to assist in manageability and aid in straightening. However, improperly used, they can lead to hair loss. In this article, I'll discuss a few basics around relaxers including preparation for relaxers, types of relaxers, and touch-ups.

How Relaxers for Black Hair Work

Relaxers are composed of a chemical (sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide) that works by breaking down the sulphur bonds in hair. While these bonds are being broken down, the hair is formed straight (typically by smoothing with the back of a comb). The hair is then neutralized with a shampoo causing the sulphur bonds to hang on to the new straight shape permanently. This neutralizing step stops the chemical processing and is extremely important in the relaxer application process.

Relaxer Preparation

Relaxers for black hair must be prepared for unlike relaxers or rather Japanese straightening techniques. Below, I have listed out some of the things you need to do to prepare your hair for a relaxer - whether it is a virgin relaxer or a relaxer touch-up:

Do not scratch your scalp. This will open up your pores and also remove skin that will leave new sensitive skin exposed. This is the most common cause of burning with relaxer applications.
Limit the use of heat styling tools. The relaxer process itself weakens the hair to some degree. If you have a relaxer, you should not use heat to style your hair on a regular basis.
Deep conditioner your hair prior to treatment. Leading up to the time you'll get your relaxer, make sure to deep condition your hair to keep is strong and healthy.

Relaxer Process Tips

When you're having your hair relaxed - preferably by a licensed stylist - there are a few things you should pay attention to that will ensure that you're getting the best service for your hair's health. Let's take a look:

Make sure the stylist bases your hairline and your scalp.
If the relaxer begins to burn, let your stylist know. Often time, they will be able to work a little faster.
If you have a new stylist, let him/her know your experience with relaxers. This will help them time it and make you comfortable.
Pay attention to see if the stylist only applies the relaxer to your new growth.
Never allow the stylist to leave you alone for any period of time while there is still relaxer in your hair.
The stylist should take care to thoroughly rinse the relaxer out of your hair before neutralizing it.
You should receive a protein deep conditioning treatment after your relaxer.

The most important thing to remember during the relaxer process is to SPEAK UP! Speaking up can be all the difference between keeping the hair on your head and losing it all. Believe me. I know. When I got the relaxer that caused my hair to break off, I KNEW something was not right during the whole process. But I did not speak up. Don't let this happen to you.

If you speak up and the stylist does not pay attention to you, then you need to speak up again, speak to a manager or leave (as appropriate, of course).

Touch-Ups

When you get a relaxer, it can only be done to hair that has already grown in. As time goes by, your hair will grow. That hair that comes in will not be relaxed. The process of getting that new growth hair relaxed is typically referred to as a relaxer re-touch or a touch-up. A few things to keep in mind in regards to touch-ups:

Have at least 1 inch of new growth before getting a re-touch and more if you can manage it. This should amount to 8-10 weeks.
Learn to manage your new growth effectively by determining some styles that will keep you from manipulating your hair too much.
Keep your new growth moisturized so that it is healthy when the relaxer chemical is applied.

For more information on how often to relax your hair, click here.

Best Relaxers for Black Hair

Finally, I'd like to talk about choosing the best relaxers for black hair. Many people rave about getting no-lye relaxers but the truth is that no-lye relaxers are not good for your hair! Now, granted, all relaxers can somewhat weaken the hair, no-lye relaxers cause additional problems on top of that.

No-lye relaxers came about as a solution to the burning people experience when getting their hair relaxed. However, they don't solve the problem. I always had a no-lye relaxer and let me tell you - THEY BURNED - just like any other relaxer. I did have a very sensitive scalp but my point is that no-lye relaxers do not solve the problem they were meant to solve.

Here are some of the problems with no-lye relaxers:

The chemical uses a calcium compound (calcium hydroxide) that builds up on the hair. This build-up keeps the hair from getting any moisture because it seals off the cuticle.
Causes a dry scalp.
Causes extremely dry hair

Conditioning lye relaxers are best. Here's why:

No calcium build-up so no dry hair and no dry scalp
Hair will be silkier, softer, and more pliable
Hair has more body, bounce, and more shine
The cuticle can be opened to receive moisture so hair stays more conditioned

Conclusion

As you can see relaxers for black hair can offer a method of manageability especially for straight hair styles that will resist reversion. If you already have a relaxer or are deciding on whether to relax, remember to use a conditioning lye relaxer done by a professional and follow all precautions I listed above. More than anything, I want you to get from this page is to speak up when visiting a stylist. It is your hair and you have the right to question the stylist about it!